Wong Kei, London (Past and Present)

Most people who loves chinese food and have been to London would have eaten at Wong Kei. It has been in business for almost 30 years now.

For those who have not been to Wong Kei, it is one of the most famous restaurant in London's Chinatown.
No exact figures are known but it is estimated to be one of the largest Chinese restaurants in the UK with seating for around 500 diners.


Apparently, there's a legend about this restaurant:-
When Wong Kei opened some 30 years ago, they had brought the best chefs all the way from China and their food was fresh and appetizing. Their plates and cutlery clean. And the waiters were friendly. But their business was not going well and no customers came. The days became weeks and weeks became months and the owner of Wong Kei was in despair as his business was worsening day by day.

But one day the owner of Wong Kei had a dream. In that dream he was told that if he treated his customers like shit, his business would flourish.
Three decades later and the business is successful and he's smiling to the bank.

The rudeness of the staff of Wong Kei is legendary.
You are treated like a prisoner.
But people flock there because it's cheap and the food is delicious.


The last time I visited Wong Kei was in 1996.
During that time, it was a terrifying experience.

After 12 years, I have stepped into Wong Kei again, prepared to be verbally abused.
But as things and people will change, Wong Kei has changed over the years.

Just let me explain what it was like eating in Wong Kei (1996 vs 2008)



1996
Those were the days.
Here's what will happen when you walk in.
You'll be one of several parties shuffling through the entrance.
Quite fast, you catch the eye of one of the notoriously rude waiters, who will look you up and down and snap.
"How many?".
Give the number of your party and however many the answer will be the
same: he'll jerk his thumb towards the back of the restaurant and answer,
"Upstairs" (hence one of it's many nicknames: Upstairs Downstairs).
Off you will obediently shuffle to the back of the restaurant, where a grubby staircase will take you up to floor two.
Once on 2nd floor, the same scenario will occur.
Eventually you will be show to a table, maybe on the third or fourth
floor, which will seat eight - again regardless of how many there are of you.
The rest of the table will be taken up with complete strangers, who will vary from
Chinese families to Soho trendies to business people to tourists.
You'll order instantly when asked or you would risk being thrown out (You are suppose to memorize and decide on your order before walking into the restaurant. There's a menu beside the entrance. You'll be thrown out if you haven't decided on what to order when the waiter takes your order).
The menu apparently hasn't changed for years (and neither have the prices) and you will be given a free teapot of delicious chinese tea.
Your menu choices will feature all the usual Chinese stuff, personal favourite being the sweet and sour pork.
Your food will arrive within minutes.
They will virtually throw the food at you.
You'll eat it, and it'll be unexpectedly delicious.
When you're done, a piece of cheap paper will arrive covered in Chinese scribbles and a total at the bottom: this is your bill.
Cash only please.

2008
In 2004, the restaurant was refurbished and the staff lost their usual white shirts for red or black branded t-shirt sporting the slogan "upstairs downstairs" in reference to how customers are allocated seating positions.
These T-Shirts are available for sale (10 pounds).
The waiters tend to sit parties upon their group size e.g. single diners are seated in the ground floor front dining area (overflowing to the downstairs area), parties with children are seated in the ground floor back area (overflowing to the first floor) and business party groups are almost always seated in the smarter first floor area.
Most of the seating is shared and requests for non-shared seating are often ignored.
Diners are provided with chopsticks, a napkin and a Chinese soup spoon; if a knife and fork is needed it has to be requested.
They no longer throw you out for doing that.
On every table there is plastic plate with a small bottle of soy sauce, and a glass of a chili condiment with a small steel spoon.
Every customer gets a free pot of Chinese tea with unlimited refills.
To request a refill, one leaves the teapot lid open.
And yes, you can take your time to go over the menu and then flag the waiter to order.
The current restaurant is spread over five floors, from the basement up to the third floor.
I ate the pork chop rice (4.80 pounds)
Chinese tea remains free.
The food is still delicious in a trashy sort of way.
The portions remain huge. (Eat until want to vomit portion!)
And beware, you may fall off your chair when you hear the waiter saying thank you when you pay the bill.


The trip is still a quite unique experience: the ritual entry, the mad decor and the fantastic mix of diners - good way of making friends.


People who hates Wong Kei are usually first timers and people who are too sensitive or haven't been told beforehand about the staff's idiosyncrasies.
The others (frequent visitors) just love eating there.
Wong Kei is so famous that it now has a cult following.
There are 2 facebooks dedicated to Wong Kei with more than 600 members.

Wong Kei remains the most eccentric chinese restaurant in London.
It is a London institution and may it remain so.
Miss it at your peril.


Getting there:-
41-43 Wardour Street
Soho
London, W1D 6PX
Nearest Transport: Piccadilly Circus
Opens: 12noon to 12MN daily.

Embeded in this post is a you tube video clip just to prove how Wong Kei has changed.
If you listen closely, you could hear the boss saying sorry to his customers.